This is a tale of three Ácenars: the working lunch I’d recommend to anyone; the glimmering, ideal River Walk dinner; and the night when things went sideways.

All three stories take place in one of the most style-forward restaurants on the River Walk, a three-level showcase of bold pop art colors and staircase drama. Started in 2005 by restaurateurs Lisa Wong (Rosario’s) and Peter Selig (Biga on the Banks, Maverick Texas Brasserie), Ácenar’s the easy answer when people ask, “Where can I get Mexican food at a nicer place downtown that’s not just Tex-Mex?”